In Good Taste: A Look Back at Behind the Sign Food Stories
Having just published a story about COA Mexican Eatery & Tequileria, I got to thinking of past stories we’ve written about other local restaurants here in the Magic Skagit. In turns out that over the past four years there have been eight such stories, counting our latest. Honestly, had it not been for a year-long pandemic, there would have been many more. I mean, who doesn’t like stories about food?
But if you really want to experience what a restaurant is all about, take-out just won’t tell you the full story. I like to experience the culinary mission of any restaurant on its terms and in its house — and the closer to the kitchen, the better.
To appreciate my bias where food stories are concerned, consider my background. Before moving to Mount Vernon nearly eight years ago, I spent years writing about the culinary scene in Boise, Idaho — from farms, ranches, and wineries to locally owned restaurants, artisan food retailers and markets. It was a robust food culture that counterbalanced the increasing Californication that came with the western expansion of the Treasure Valley. Driving down the Eagle Road from west Boise to rapidly expanding Meridian and the tonier residential developments culminating in Eagle, you witnessed a veritable “who’s who” of chain restaurants. It was too much like L.A. for this Northern Californian turned Gem State booster.
My oft proclaimed mantra has been that if you woke up one morning to discover that restaurant franchises were all that was left of your community’s culinary scene you would lose an important part of your regional identity. It’s not that I think franchise restaurants are bad — far from it — it’s just that they tell us nothing about the unique food traditions and culinary identity of where we live. And did I mention that I really like food?
As I look forward to writing more food stories to celebrate the much anticipated “Return To Normal…Or Something Like It” in 2021, I offer this smorgasbord of past food stories, going back to 2014.
Bon appetit!
Oh, Sweet Bliss!

Our very first food story was about a mom & pop frozen yogurt shop in Stanwood…but even back in November 2014 we were clear about why we wanted to write stories like this. As we stated then:
Awhile ago we came up with the notion of devoting blog posts to our customers — not so much for the bragging rights we might earn by promoting our relationships with some great local businesses, but for the opportunity to share something very near and dear to our hearts: the challenge and satisfaction of succeeding as an independently owned company.
When local brands beat the odds, they enhance a community’s sense of identity as well as contribute to its economic wellbeing — and in the case of a family-owned frozen yogurt shop in Stanwood, Washington, becoming a vital part of its community’s identity was an intrinsic part of its business plan from the get go. In that spirit, we proudly bring you the story of Sweet Bliss and its wife and husband owners, Teresa and Erik Gladsjo.
Mexico Cafe

Having just written about one Skagit Valley Mexican restaurant, we should note that we wrote about a much loved icon of south-of-the-border cuisine several years ago.
It sits just off Memorial Highway in west Mount Vernon — close to the center of things, but far enough away for easy parking and a little bit of breathing room. For the legion of fans it has served for more than half a century (do the math — Mexico Cafe opened its doors in 1965), the restaurant’s cheery, ranch-style facade beckons like the family room on a birthday. Never mind that Mexico Cafe gave many Skagitonians their first taste of Mexican cuisine, locals from three generations continue to come to the restaurant of Adolph and Angie Rivas because it takes them to their happy place.
Sarkall’s: Anyone ‘Pho’ Donuts?

One of the things I’ve realized in going back through past Behind the Sign stories is that I’ve been guilty of some really dreadful puns. My apologies…but I’m too old to amend that habit. On the other hand, I’m a keen judge of ethnic cuisine, and several years after publishing this story about this Burlington source of great donuts and arguably the best sandwiches in the Magic Skagit, it remains a personal favorite. Come for the fried dough…stay for the Cambodian dishes, ya’ll.
Last year, as the pandemic began taking its toll on local businesses, we published this update on Sarkall’s. We are so thankful they’ve continued to weather the storm.

For Derek Wyckoff, Brewing an Epic Beer is as Easy as 1-9-2

The inspiration for 192 Brewing Co., located at the south end of 2nd Street in Mount Vernon, came about as the result of an amateur brewer’s inability to maintain enough supply to satisfy some thirsty friends on a hot summer day. It so happened, however, that the amateur brewer in question also had a professional background in the hospitality trade.
Meet Derek Wyckoff — local boy done good.
We did a “pandemic update” with Derek last year, and we can’t wait to get back to 192 Brewing, order a Shticky Blonde, and check out the latest menu offerings. I’ll drink to that!

Hal’s Drive In: Elvis is Still in the Building, and He’s Having a Ranch Burger

Having come of age in the ’60s, I’ll proudly cop to the fact that I’m a sucker for a throwback burger joint. But along with the kitsch, you’d better serve up an honest cheeseburger and vanilla malted or I’m likely to make like Elvis and leave the building. In the case of Hal’s, however, I’m caught in a trap and I can’t walk out.
So there you have it…a brief retrospective of past food stories from Behind the Sign. Are you salivating yet?
We’re looking forward to publishing more of these stories in 2021, hopefully based on in-person accounts where masks are worn only by stick up artists. After all, when it comes to a local culinary scene, the Magic Skagit is truly an embarrassment of riches. We’d love to hear about some of your favorite local food experiences as well…or at least be instrumental in introducing you to some new ones.