I love a good sandwich. At its most basic, it’s the ultimate in utilitarian cuisine: protein and optional veggies encased in your bread of choice with appropriate condiments — easily assembled and wrapped ready to go. Toss it into your knapsack and quicker than you can say, carpe diem, you’re out the door and on the way to adventure. Or school.

Which leads me to divulge another reason I love a good sandwich: nostalgia. On those days when the school lunch menu couldn’t tempt me with tater tots, pizza, or beanie weinies, there was nothing like lifting a homemade velveeta and bologna with wilted iceberg lettuce on soggy Wonder Bread out of my Superman lunch box to remind me that a mother’s love is enduring.

And on those days when, in addition to the obligatory apple, orange, or banana, my lunch might include some chips, a homemade oatmeal cookie, or a package of Hostess Twinkies, I could bask in the undisguised envy of those schoolmates who were bleakly facing their third day in a row of PB&J on Roman Meal. I’m not sure what the equivalent phrase back in the day might have been for, “How do you like me now, bitches?,” but I’m sure I was thinking it.

I actually eat very few sandwiches these days. It’s the carbs more than anything…which also means that I don’t often drink beer. Because of my relative abstinence, however, when I do sit down to a beer or a sandwich, it damn well better be good — and I’m well past considering processed ham & cheese high cuisine. I’m picky to the point of seeming snobbish — unless you know just how much I appreciate good food, and how wide-ranging my palate is. And that extends to comfort food. I’m not above a fried egg and spam sandwich, but I’m more likely to go for it when served on a Kirkland Signature Artisan Roll. Thank you, Costco bakery — those rolls are off the chain!

Up until recently, one of my favorite places to grab a sandwich was Sarkall’s in Burlington. Actually, “grab” is a poor choice of verbs where Sarkall’s was concerned. Ideally, you would call in your sandwich order at least half an hour before picking it up — and you might still have a wait. Back before the pandemic, ordering in-house meant you had plenty of time to catch up on your email, work on the great American novel, or enjoy one of Sarkall’s incredible apple fritters while watching sports highlights on the big screen behind the counter. I always enjoyed chatting with Kea — who owned Sarkall’s along with his with wife Sopahn — about his native Cambodian food while he painstakingly prepared some of the tastiest and freshest sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. Ever since Sarkall’s closed, I’ve been going through the stages of grief. Sadly, I’ve been stuck in denial.

A couple of weeks ago, Meyer Sign owner Ken Hitt and I visited a place just down the road from the company’s Old Hwy. 99 South address. It was one of those events that proves yet again that when one door closes, another opens…and then serves up a killer sandwich. 2nd Street Deli & Dogs had long been on my list of local eateries to try, but after the closure of Sarkall’s I was concerned about some mediocre sandwich joint catching me on the rebound. I’m still in a fragile state. I’m delighted to say, however, that 2nd Street Deli & Dogs promises to fill that sandwich shaped hole in my heart that was left when Sarkall’s closed. This place is the proverbial “real deal” when it comes to what I believe a “deli sandwich” should be. And when I use the word “deli,” I’m referring to a time honored culinary genre, not just a venue.

Those of you familiar with 2nd Street as it runs south from the downtown core will probably recall the 2nd Street Deli & Dog’s location as the site of some previous Mount Vernon eateries. When my wife and I first moved here eight years ago, it was the home of a very credible BBQ joint that seemed pretty popular. The venue was later occupied by an eclectic little eatery that just never seemed to put down a strong set of roots in our local culinary landscape. I honestly don’t recall whether it had closed its doors before or after the Great Pandemic of ’20, but it seemed like the storefront was vacant for a while. And then 2nd Street Deli & Dogs appeared.

My first impression of 2nd Street Deli & Dogs was that it had good curb appeal. It looked like the kind of place you’d expect to get a decent sandwich — and nobody would include “Dog” in their restaurant name if they weren’t prepared to deliver something above your generic Oscar Meyer Weiner (no relation to Meyer Sign, fyi). In my opinion, if you’re putting hotdogs on the marquee, you’d better take them up a notch or two or not waste my name. For this reason alone, I decided I’d better take a hard look at the restaurant’s menu — and a quick inspection sealed the deal as far as my commitment to make visiting 2nd Street Deli & Dogs a “sooner rather than later” priority. Truth be told, their menu had me at “Seattle Dog.”

I had only recently heard of this eponymous culinary icon of the Emerald City, thanks to local PBS affiliate KCTS and its Mossback Den series featuring engaging historical tales and tidbits, as related by its frizzy and affable host, Knute Berger. In an episode devoted to uniquely Seattle foods, Knute described a hot dog served with cream cheese, grilled onions, spicy brown mustard, and sauerkraut. My first reaction to the Seattle Dog was that if craving something like this is wrong, I don’t want to be right. Finding a Seattle Dog source went to the top of my culinary bucket list with a bullet — but I figured it would take a dedicated urban expedition (with the help of Mr. Google) to find one that would set the bar for something that could only have been envisioned in a State at the forefront of legalized cannabis.

In what may be one of my giddiest food discoveries in 2021 — a year that could use some giddiness — I am pleased at this joyous season of the year to spread the good news that you don’t have to go to Seattle to get a stoned immaculate hotdog. Best of all for yours truly, It’s within walking distance. Yes, I do lead a charmed life.

On visiting 2nd Street Deli & Dogs with Ken, I ordered the Seattle Dog with breathless anticipation. Ken went for an item on the “Specialty Sandwich” side of the four-page menu called the “Skagit River.” Like its namesake, it spilled its banks — overflowing with smoked turkey, bacon, lettuce, tomato, avocado, and whipped cream cheese on a toasted French roll. Ken put a hold on the tomato and avocado. I love the man like a brother…but jiminy Christmas! Hold the tomato and avocado? Perish the thought.

What can I say about the Seattle Dog? When you’re dealing with what could accurately be called a Kosher Apocalypse, you’d better start with something more substantial than a dime store frank or risk condiment overwhelm. 2nd Street Deli & Dogs boldly faces this challenge with a 1/4 pound (you heard me right) natural beef dog from 3 Sisters Market on Whidbey Island. Yes, this dog has a pedigree — and it comes from a family farm that has been in operation since 1910. It takes a big dog to run with the cream cheese, grilled onions, spicy brown mustard, and sauerkraut, and still bite flavorfully back when you sink your teeth into it.

The total effect would leave The Bard at a loss for words. Such was my delight in this regional epicurean icon that I found myself contemplating as did Hamlet, “What a piece of work is a man. How noble in reason. How infinite in faculty.” It was that kind of food experience.

Ken was equally, though perhaps less poetically, enthused about his sandwich, despite having deprived it of two of its key ingredients. Lest you think he’s the sort of person who would paint a mustache on the Mona Lisa, let me assure you that he’s a good man at heart — and he paid for lunch. As we were enjoying our repast at one of the deli’s industrial spool tables (the kind I used to enhance with a blow torch to bring out the rich wood grain before covering the surface with layers of clear polyurethane varnish for that sought after ‘70s vibe), an acquaintance of Ken’s who was picking up his take-out order recommended the potato salad. I made note of this…along with the amount of take out business the place was doing. By the way, I would encourage those reading this to check out 2nd Street Deli & Dogs Facebook page, not only for photos bordering on food porn, but for the 5-star reviews — 47 out of 47 ain’t bad, folks.

I returned to 2nd Street Deli & Dogs a few days after my initial visit with Ken to pick up lunch for my wife and myself. As much as I was tempted to go with another Seattle Dog, I followed Ken’s lead and went to the specialty sandwich menu, from which I ordered the Trumpeter: pastrami, roast beef, havarti cheese, pepperoncini, lettuce, and red onions with a horseradish aioli served on sourdough. Are you hungry yet?

I got a chicken sandwich for my wife, with grilled chicken breast (hot or cold, your choice), basted with roasted red pepper aioli and topped with lettuce, tomato, avocado (no hold on these last two items, I can assure you), red onion and — wait for it — bacon. You can get this sandwich on ciabatta (which would be my choice) or sourdough. Being cursed with gluten intolerance, my wife had requested a gluten-free option if available. It was. “It’s a slightly smaller sandwich,” the friendly gent behind the counter told me in a spirit of frank disclosure. As it was, my wife could only eat half of her sandwich and declared it delicious.

Taking the advice of Ken’s acquaintance, I ordered a large side of potato salad to accompany our sandwiches. Both my wife and I agreed that 2nd Street Deli & Dogs would have received a two thumbs up from my Okie mother-in-law, God rest her sweet soul, who set the bar in our family for good down home tater salad. I should also point out that the deli’s sides also include steak cut fries, mac & cheese (can I get a witness?), mashed potatoes and gravy, and macaroni salad. Like Sarkalls, it might be best to order your sandwich in advance, although the ambiance at 2nd Street Deli & Dogs is pleasing and socially distanced…and the food is well worth the wait, regardless.

As we near the end of 2021, I find myself thinking about New Year’s resolutions, and I’m proud to say that I’ve already made mine. In the spirit of contributing not only to my personal improvement but also to the advancement of that which is good in the world, I have resolved to work my way through the entire 2nd Street Deli & Dogs menu by this time next year. It’s a bold ambition, but fortune favors the bold. I think my next foray into the world of gourmet dogs will be the “Spicy BBQ Hot Dog”: a polish dog with spicy BBQ sauce, red onion, jalapeños, & melted pepper jack cheese. I’m thinking a side of macaroni salad should mellow it out quite nicely.

By the way, I should point out that the south end of 2nd Street has some other notable gems in its culinary crown. Just a couple of blocks away you’ll find 192 Brewing Company & Taphouse, followed by the venerable Dari Delite, Hollywood Coffee, and last but not least, The Town Pump and its killer pizzas as well as my favorite IPA, Elysian Brewing’s “Space Dust,” on tap.

Yes, I will continue to mourn Sarkall’s, but there is a balm in Gilead, to quote the Good Book — and I’ll take heartburn over a heartbreak any day.