Tales from the Magic Skagit: Crusin’ Chuckanut Drive

Chuckanut Drive is the kind of experience people from all over the world come to Washington to enjoy — and it’s right in our backyard!

Growing up, one of my family’s favorite pastimes was the “weekend drive.” Gas was cheap, and the journey was the goal. The windshield of our ’57 Chevy Bel Air was the closest we came to a big screen back in the day, and there was always something to marvel at. And although the drive itself was often random, it usually ended up at our favorite ice cream shop (my default was a scoop of rocky road and a scoop of butter brickle). Living in San Francisco at the time, we also often stopped at Playland on the Beach at the salt water taffy place that my dad loved. You could watch the taffy being pulled by a wicked looking machine in the huge picture window beneath the red and white striped awnings of Yum Yum. I can thank those large bags of taffy for many a childhood cavity.


The essential ingredients of the classic “family drive” pretty much boil down to the following: the decision to put everything else aside and collectively live in the moment, some inspiring scenery to enchant you and stimulate conversation, and a terminal point that involves some sort of treat. A dependable car radio is a good thing as well, as long as nobody argues about what’s playing.

Here in the Magic Skagit, we have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to local drives. In fact, I pity the folks who lack the options we enjoy. My absolute favorite, however, is Chuckanut Drive.

If you’re looking to go from Mount Vernon to Bellingham, the fastest way is to take I-5. The more scenic alternative, however, is 24 miles of road that includes a winding stretch perched precariously above the Samish Bay, where the Cascade Mountains meet the sea. This is a distance that, on the average interstate, could be travelled in less than half an hour. To do justice to Chuckanut Drive, however, a day trip is in order. There’s plenty to see and do along the way, from a visit to a shellfish farm to hiking forest trails — and some good eating to be had in the bargain. Not to mention the journey’s culmination in a picturesque little historic district.

The starting point for Chuckanut Drive is exit 231 in Burlington, on what is designated as WA State Highway 11. The road was constructed in 1896 to provide land access to Bellingham Bay and the community of Fairhaven — known officially as the Historic Fairhaven District of Bellingham. The first few miles of your journey take you through the farmlands of the Skagit Valley — home to the world famous annual Tulip Festival in April.

Although you’ll just be starting out, you might want to make a quick stop in the little town of Edison, whose handful of pioneer era buildings include some great places to stock up on comestibles such as artisan baked goods and cheeses (check out Breadfarm and Slough Foods), or grab a bite to eat at Tweets (shrimp & grits, anyone?) or the Longhorn Saloon (a favorite watering hole for throngs of bikers making the annual Oyster Run each fall). You can even take in an art gallery, browse a funky antique store, or walk off that Breadfarm chocolate croissant on the nearby Padilla Bay Shore Trail.

Don’t forget to stop at Edison — there’s some mean eats to be had.

Once back on Chuckanut Drive, you’ll begin climbing up out of “the flats” of Skagit County, and from mile 8 onward you’re in for some spectacular views of the Samish Bay. A bit of historical trivia: at about mile 9 you’ll pass the community of Blanchard and the home of the famous American journalist Edward R. Murrow, whose family moved to Washington from his birthplace in North Carolina when Murrow was six years old.

If you’re up for a serious hike, you can make the 6-mile roundtrip excursion to Oyster Dome atop Blanchard Mountain, a historic logging area. At 2,025 feet in elevation, it’s one of the region’s most beloved scenic overlooks. But don’t worry if you’re not feeling that ambitious — there are plenty of other spectacular views to be had of the Samish Bay and Washington’s famous San Juan Islands, thanks to a number of turnouts along the way.

The view from Oyster Dome. If the hike kills you, at least you’ll die inspired.

Included among these turnouts are some excellent restaurants whose menus proudly feature Samish Bay oysters. Should you prefer to get right to the source of this gastronomic delight, you can take a short but steep detour just before mile 11 to Taylor Shellfish Farm, where Samish Bay oysters are raised and sold, along with mussels, crabs and other shellfish. Native American tribes harvested shellfish from these waters for more than 8,000 years, and the name “chuckanut” actually translates as “beach on a bay with a small entrance.”

For the next several miles, prepare to be dazzled by views of the San Juan Islands to the west and forested cliffs to the east…with the occasional mountain creek and waterfall tumbling past. You might want to put blinders on your designated driver — this isn’t a road that is tolerant of distractions, no matter how inspiring. You can give your driver a break at mile 14, however, and visit Washington’s very first state park, Larrabee. Situated on the seaward side of Chuckanut Mountain, it marks the dividing line between Skagit and Whatcom Counties. A mere 3/4-mile hike will lead you to sandstone cliffs and the tide pools of Clayton Beach, as well as postcard perfect views that don’t entail the risk of driving off a cliff.

Just past Larrabee State Park you’ll be treated to views of Chuckanut Bay and Chuckanut Island. If you’re looking for another excursion, stop at Teddy Bear Cove County Park, where a wooden staircase takes you down its trailhead. Don’t let its cuddly name fool you — the 1.8-mile hike is listed as “strenuous”.

Once your heart rate has dropped back down from the cardio zone, you’ll be ready for the more civilized comforts of Fairhaven, just past mile 19. At the southern end of the city of Belllingham, the historic district has sufficient charm to command your attention — and your palate — for the rest of your day. For its size, Fairhaven boasts an assortment of culinary riches: from its seasonal farmers’ market to brew pubs, a Victorian tea house, and even a fish & chips stand housed in a London double-decker bus. The district’s restaurants and shops are set in and amidst restored 19th century brick buildings that harken back to its pioneer past. You can still catch a car ferry to connect you to the Alaska Marine Highway System and the last American Frontier.

Fairhaven is too quaint to miss.

Between the 1850s and 1890s, the only way to get from Seattle to Bellingham was by boat. State Highway 11 changed all that at a time when transportation by road was one of the least efficient means of travel — and to this day, Chuckanut Drive comprises some of the most difficult road building terrain in Washington. For those who travel its 24 miles as an alternative to the interstate, however, the journey is measured in delights rather than miles per hour. And if that doesn’t make for a classic family weekend drive, what does?

Needless to say, it’s a lot easier making the drive along SR Hwy 11 than it was back in the day — but the beauty of the scenery hasn’t changed a bit.